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Hello

Welcome to this blog, the story of a great big Australian adventure. It documents my travels, life in Australia over more than a decade, and a subject I was able to become involved in during that time – environmental conservation. 

Burning bridges

Burning bridges

I’ve loved California, or the idea of California at least, for as long as I can remember. When barely a teen, I was infatuated by the base player in a folk-rock band from LA. Some of the best so-called pop music originated on the West Coast back then: and for a long while afterwards it was the only place to have come from; or to wannabe.

Recently I read about a sub-genre of folk rock – ‘characterised by jangly guitar, melodies, harmonies, and lyrics clearly delineated into verse and chorus’ – and termed Jangle pop. I resisted an urge to shout something rude across the empty room: how could the Byrds, R.E.M. and the Smiths share the same tag? Ah, but things were so straightforward then; they’re much more muddled now.

Such love for California and its music, whatever it was labelled, meant I had to go there, but it took an inordinate amount of time –– an embarrassingly long time, in fact –– to realise my ambition. And during my visit to the Golden State I spent more time in places other than the Hollywood Hills where my idol may still have lived. That spring there happened to be the most spectacular wildflower ‘event’, attributed to an unusually wet late-autumn the previous year. Flower power trumped nostalgia hands down.

I thought of him during recent horrific bushfires, wondering if he’d escaped the world of extravagant palaces of the stars before they were reduced to the same charred rubble as the homes of more ordinary people. The conflagration affected all who shared this paradise before the inferno. Not for the first time I was reminded of someone’s observation way back, flippant or cynical I’m not sure which, that California was ‘a fine place to live, if you happen to be an orange’.

For a long time it was assumed that the release of stress along the San Andreas fault zone was most likely to reduce the West Coast to rubble: and a serious earthquake was well overdue since San Francisco 1906. In the end, however, disaster took the form of a wind-driven firestorm that grew monstrous and terrifyingly out of control. The Southern California wildfires of January 2025 were exacerbated by drought, low humidity, uncontrolled vegetation, and strong, persistent Santa Ana winds –– also known as devil winds –– blowing from the interior.

This was a place I believed was everlasting, drenched in sunshine and joy, if a tad smoggy at times. But much of it was obliterated beyond all recognition; and now I struggle to picture the rounded low hills, unextraordinary except for bizarre inhabitants; an infinite deep blue ocean lapping a sun-drenched coast; and a culture the stuff of millions of dreams.

Oh California; barely getting much of a mention these days, following intervening events best left unsaid, but events that will likely prevent me from ever returning to the US. Dreams shattered into pieces; burnt to a crisp; and finally scuppered by my refusal to patronise a country led by a megalomaniac –– elected, unbelievably, a second time around –– and aligned with an equally unpalatable mega-rich-egotist-weirdo. We used to call such people bigheads where I come from: but that’s nowhere near rude enough now.

Are wildfires becoming more frequent and intense in a warming world? Perhaps we hear more about them than previously. Recurring fire weakens native plant species so they are easily replaced by robust invaders that ignite easily and smoulder longer, creating a cycle of escalating risk and destruction.

I have limited experience of wildfire, and on the opposite side of the planet. In the lead-up to fire season in Australia, there are ‘planned burns’ to prevent larger accidental, potentially catastrophic fires. The national broadcaster, the ABC, reminds listeners beforehand how to reduce fire risk, by moving timber and other inflammables away from property; cutting deadwood fuel from trees and bushes; and packing in readiness for rapid evacuation. When firefighters come knocking, you must follow them straight out, no rushing back to pack a bag. The smallest valuables, most important documents, and pets that fit into lightweight, easy-to-carry containers must be ready to grab as you run out of the door.

On a larger scale, I don’t know how best to pre-prep for fire seasons in high-risk landscapes. To what extent can the practices of indigenous peoples – such as regular and carefully managed ‘cool burns’– be learned and more widely applied across a warming planet? Consider at what level of danger prescribed recommendations become enforceable orders.

A fiercely howling wind may be indistinguishable from the roar of an approaching wall of flames. It is also worth knowing that a blaze powered by a land gale moves faster than a human being can run.

In the meantime, enjoy the natural world whenever you can, especially wildflower carpets, forest glades, mountain peaks, crashing waves, birdsong… especially birdsong. There’ll always be something else to think about if you don’t want to confront the big scary issues of our rapidly warming home, but the sooner we do, the more confident we’ll be to act rather than panic. I read the other day of concern that most people are unprepared for any kind of catastrophe. Have you got a plan for survival?

I once spoke to someone I know in country Queensland when most of the state was on alert for fire. Her family had battened down the hatches on their farm and were awaiting further instruction from the fire service. She described an eerie calm, larger wildlife having long since gone, while smaller creatures such as frogs had taken refuge in the house! She mentioned there was no birdsong and that was when I shivered in fear. Many animals have uncanny instincts that we humans may not have perfected well enough yet.

If you had to choose or die...

If you had to choose or die...